Living & Working in Ishikawa, Japan
Forgive me for the following lines of shameless self-promotion. I’m a CIR in Tsubata who happens to adore food – its cultural relevance as well as its production and consumption. A few months ago it was getting to the point where it seemed like my Facebook wall was almost nothing but photos of things I had eaten. So I decided to consolidate. I started a blog.
I try to keep my content local when I can, and particularly enjoy trying out mysterious seasonal produce – but I post everything from bento ideas to restaurant reviews, as well as recipes and stories. If you’re a fellow food enthusiast, would like guidance on cooking in Japan, or are just looking for a fun way to experience more of Ishikawa, Hokuriku Expat Kitchen is meant for you.
Look for a weekly update on my culinary adventures every Thursday, here on the Ishikawa JET Blog!
Without further ado, today’s post is a restaurant review.
Unkai (雲海) is an awesome gyoza restaurant in the hills just inland of central Tsubata. It’s a bit of a trek, even with a car, but I promise it’s worth your while. You can sample twelve unusual dumpling varieites (including curry and black sesame) as well as Chinese teas and homemade desserts, served against the backdrop of an elegantly restored 100 year old house. The owner/chef is generous and accomodating, and will gladly design a menu that fits the needs of your party. Vegetarian versions of all of the gyoza are available upon request.
Hours: 10:00 a.m.~7:00 p.m. (Closed Wednesdays) Open by reservation only
Phone Number: (076) 288-0308
Address: 石川県河北郡津幡町字上藤又ト９ (Ishikawa ken, Kahoku gun, Tsubata machi, Kamifujimata To 9)
For more information, see the full review, or visit Unkai’s webpage (Japanese only)
… Or is it?
The shop windows glow invitingly in the evening.
I’d like you introduce you to Patisserie Ar. I found this place when I got lost on the way to a preschool visit. Hidden away in a residential neighborhood just a minute by car from the highway, this take-home cake shop is definitely worth the short detour when you’re passing through. They have no seating, but they’ll package their delicious cakes with plenty of ice packs to keep them safe and cool until you make it home.
The shop itself is cute, with ornate wallpaper and an eclectic collection of decorative mirrors covering the walls. But of course, our eyes are immediately drawn to the glass case, and the enticing display of cakes and sweets of all colors and shapes. There are flavors for sweet lovers of all kinds, from that staple of Japanese cake shops, strawberry shortcake, to a simple, rich gateau chocolat (ガトーショコラ), to creamy green tea mousse (te ver – テ・ヴェール 抹茶ムース). Their blueberry tart is piled high with cream and fresh blueberries, and their chocolate raspberry cake is just the right combination of sweet and tart.
The blueberry tart has a center of blueberry preserves and sweet vanilla custard, and is topped with fresh blueberries and whipped cream (370 yen).
I think I was most impressed by their chiffon cake. I always considered chiffon cake to be a pretty boring, no-comment kind of dessert, but Patisserie Ar has made me realize its potential. Theirs is extremely moist and complimented well by not-too-sweet whipped cream. The flavor varies seasonally – last time I went, each slice was flavored with yuzu zest, and the time before that with the subtle aroma of earl gray tea.
Sorting and putting out garbage and recycling are two of the most nightmarish prospects of life in Japan. But thanks to the Clean Center, aka Ecora, (エコラ, ekora) in Tsubata, you no longer have to stress about throwing away those nasty old futons your predecessor left or figuring out how to toss that lamp you never really liked. Have a three month build-up of PET bottles and aluminum cans? You can dump those, too.
For those who moved into apartments with 14 years of garbage or have allowed 1-4 years of it to build up, read on. Your life is about to change.
Summer Festivals, Part 2: The long weekend of July 17-19.
You don’t have to leave Ishikawa to enjoy your three-day weekend!
1. Nanao Harbor Matsuri and Hokkoku Fireworks Display七尾港祭りと北國花火大会: July 17-18; Nanao
2. Tsurugiji Hachiman Matsuri 剣地八幡祭り, July 17-18; Wajima
3. Hakusan Matsuri 白山祭り, July 17-18; Shiramine (Hakusan)
4. Horimatsu Tug-of-War Matsuri 掘松綱引き祭 , July 18; Shika
5. Hasebe Matsuri 長谷部祭り, July 18; Anamizu
6. Kasano Matsuri 笠野祭り, July 19; Tsubata
7. Monzen Matsuri (Gourai Matsuri) 門前祭り（ごうらい祭り）, July 18-19; Monzen (Wajima)
Click the cut for details.
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