Living & Working in Ishikawa, Japan
Once a dish found only in fine dining, curry has now become the common folk’s comfort food in Japan. Japanese curry is completely different from any Southeast Asian curry. Its flavors are more akin to those of a thickened beef stew. You can have it for lunch, dinner, heck, some even eat it for breakfast with natto. It is typically served over rice and accompanied by a panko-breaded fried cutlet topping known as katsu. Various preparations of this dish have spawned across this island nation, but today we’ll focus on Kanazawa curry.
Kanazawa curry was invented by Yoshikazu Tanaka, the founder of Champion’s Curry in the 1960′s. It is characterized by the following:
Let’s explore 4 of Kanazawa’s top destinations for this stick-to-your ribs dish.
Champion’s Curry (カレーのチャンピオン)
The original Kanazawa curry is one of the “lighter” versions. This curry is a pale brown with just the tiniest hint of spice. Although thicker than traditional curry, it is still pretty saucy. The standard here is the L katsukare (Lカツカレー). The medium thick pork cutlet has a finely ground crispy panko crust. The cutlet is quite juicy and surprisingly easy to cut with your fork considering its thickness. At 780円, this is the priciest of the four.
Go!Go! Curry – (ゴーゴーカレー)
This is Champion’s biggest competitor in the area. Their intimidating gorilla mascot is fitting as this the boldest, thickest, and darkest curry of them all. Go!Go! claims that their curry is cooked for 55 hours until all meat and vegetables have disintegrated into this thick black caramelized curry. Yum. Here, you go with the rosukatsukare (ロースカツ). You get a very thin pork cutlet covered in flaky crispy panko. The meat is very soft. The caramelization of the meats make this curry one of the sweeter ones for 750円.
Turban Curry – (ターバンカレー)
Turban is your mom-and-pop lunch spot – closed by 7pm during the week and by 5pm on the weekend. Their curry is very similar to Go!Go!’s albeit not as thick or bold. Unfortunately, this shop’s staple rosukatsu, is a bit carelessly prepared. The cutlet is not as crispy and is heavily doused in tonkatsu sauce. Its saved by the surprising juiciness carried by this thin cut of meat. The tonkatsu sauce makes the dish a bit sweet, but the curry itself is quite nice and beefy. At 650円, it is the cheapest of the quartet.
Gold Curry – (ゴールドカレー)
Finally, you have Gold Curry. As you approach the shop, you are greeted by a Ganesha-like character hinting at the flavor profile of this curry. It is definitely the thickest of the four curries – those ice cold water jugs really come in handy to wash this baby down. It is heavy on the curry powder imparting strong Indian flavors. Their signature G katsukare (Gカツカレー) includes a thick cut pork cutlet that’s a bit on the chewy-side, but with a pleasant crunchy breading for 750円. On the 5th, 15th, and 25th of the month, you get up to 200円 off of your G katsukare order!
Personally, I prefer Curry House CoCo ICHIBANYA which you can find all throughout Japan (I get to bump up the spice level here), BUT Kanazawa curry has definitely grown on me. I think I’m even beginning to crave it.
This link will take you to a Google map pinpointing the location of these shops. There are dozens of Champion’s Curry and Go!Go! Curry, so I’ve only listed a few of them.
Mauricio is a 2nd year ALT who eats close to the Japanese average of 84 servings of curry a year.
I’ve got a book, a car and a mission–I want to try as many awesome cafes in Ishikawa as I can before I finish JET in 2013.
Backstory
About a year ago I went to 浪漫遊 (Rōmanyū), the second-hand store in Nonoichi, with some friends. While browsing the book section I found this gem discounted down to ¥200. As a cafe enthusiast and former barista I figured it would be a crime not to buy it. It’s been sitting on my bookshelf ever since, lonely and neglected, but with just over a year left on my JET contract, I’d like to see just how many of the places in the book I can explore.
The title
The title of this series, 恕の珈琲帖 (Jo no cōhījō), is a play on the title of the cafe guidebook I’m referencing. My name, plus coffee, plus the counter for folding books–I like to think I’ve fashioned a nice little play on words, “Jo’s Coffee Journal”.
The plan
Check back to see what kind of delicious places my adventures take me! I’ll review each cafe as I go.
Joanna is soon to be a 3rd year ALT in Kahoku City, which she hopes is home to at least one of the cool cafes on her adventure.
They’ve been written before, but positive reviews of this great little cafe bear repeating. CAFE DUMBO, tucked into a three-story building behind Kohrinbo 109, is a gem. Their menus are limited–drip coffee, basic espresso offerings, juices and a few small meals like taco rice or curry–but the great atmosphere, kind employees, great point system and amazing brunch special make it worth a visit. The second floor is decorated with vintage furniture and you’ll find plenty of reading material if you’re interested in Scandinavian design–they seem to collect art and design books. The employees speak English, and the cafe offers a English menu if you’re worried about your ability to order coffee before you’ve had your first coffee. Plus, for every five drinks you purchase you get a free drink, which is by far the best point system I’ve encountered in Japan.
I went in search of hangover food at 10AM and was pleasantly surprised to find CAFE DUMBO open! The Internet tells me their regular open time is 11:30AM, but the lights were on, sign out and employees ready to accommodate us bright and early. They were offering a brunch special–buy a drink and for ¥200 more you can get two pancakes, two strips of bacon and an egg. For just ¥700 yen I had a refreshing iced latte and an American-style brunch served with my maple syrup inside a glass cowboy boot.
Where: Behind Kohrinbo 109 in Kanazawa
Hours: Open 11:30AM–7PM Sunday-Wednesday, 11:30AM–10PM Friday and Saturday, Closed on Thursdays
Cost: Drinks from ¥450 with food specials available
Parking: Use parking lots behind Kohrinbo
Neighborhood cafes in Ishikawa can, unfortunately, be really hit or miss. Apart from the big chains like Mister Donuts or Starbucks, most of the coffee shops you’ll find are traditional kissaten. At best these are comfy hole-in-the-walls with quirky brewing techniques. At worst they are filled with old floral prints, cigarette smoke, and clientele upwards of fifty who really aren’t sure what you’re doing there.
These two cafes in Komatsu are hidden treasures. Baisenshitsu (焙煎室) is a cozy nook for coffee purists, while Komatsu Recycle Book Library is great for those of you looking for somewhere a little more eclectic. Both spots are fairly quiet and are great places to study, work, or just have a little time away from home.
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First of all, congratulations to the Ishikawa JET Kitchen crew on the completion of an excellent resource. Whether you’re a culinary nerd or just setting out to cook on your own for the first time, I highly recommend having this recipe collection on hand.
Last Saturday's special (one of four) at Mokuyuurin: Pesto pizza with eggplant and okra.
Looking to get out of your kitchen for a delicious meal made with fresh ingredients? Hoping for a jaunt out of the city? Consider visiting Tsurugi in Hakusan City, home of Mokuyuurin. Here you can find pasta, risotto and pizza, prepared with fresh local vegetables. Sit at the counter on the second story to watch seasoned pizza chefs at work at a pair of handsome brick ovens below. Or sit at one of the large wooden tables located along the expansive staircase, where giant windows open onto the green of the forests outside. Expect to pay somewhere between 800 and 1400 yen for a meal. I recommend the sets – for 1380 yen you can enjoy salad, dessert and a drink in addition to the seasonal special of your choice.
Wooden architecture, huge windows, natural light and a wide open atmosphere make Mokuyuurin the perfect place to spend a quiet, rainy afternoon.
If you have time, be sure to stroll through the store up the walkway to the left. While craftsman wooden tables and chairs may be out of your price range, the young and young at heart will enjoy the extensive collection of wooden toys from around the world. And don’t forget to pick up some cedar wood chips. Kept in your drawers or closets, the fragrant scraps will help keep your clothes smelling fresh throughout the long, damp Hokuriku winter. Outside of the Mokuyuurin complex, you can stroll through Shishiku Park to the World Shishi Museum (an impression collection of shishi masks used in festivals all over Asia – admission is free!) or down the street to Shirahime Jinja, one of Ishikawa’s most renound Shinto shrines.
For more information, check out the full review, or look below.
More Information
もく遊りん食工房（Mokuyuurin Shoku Koubou）
Hours (April through December) 11:00~22:00 [last order 21:00]
Winter Hours (January through March) 11:00~21:00 [last order 20:00]
(Closed Tuesdays, and weekdays from 15:00 through 17:00)
Phone number 076-273-9501
Address 石川県白山市八幡町リ−１−６
Homepage http://www.moku-you-rin.co.jp/food/food.html
Getting there (by train): Take the Hokutetsu Line (located across the parking lot from Nishi Kanazawa Station) to Tsurugi Station. Mokuyuurin is approximately a 30 minute walk from the station – take your time, and a map.
(by car, from Kanazawa): Head South on Highway 8, through Nonoichi. Take a left onto Highway 157. After about 10 kilometers, turn left at the 水戸町 intersection. Continue across the river to the next light, then turn right at the 新町 intersection onto 179. After approximately one kilometer, turn left across from Kaga Ichinomiya (加賀一の宮) Station (no longer in operation - but this should be the only large, T-shaped intersection in the area. Anyone with better directions is encouraged to contribute). Follow this road straight through the next light (the 八幡町 intersection), through residential areas until you run straight into the Shishi World Museum (a large building with a tiled roof and a long staircase running straight down to the road). Turn left here, and continue for about 130 meters. Mokuyuurin will be on your right – the next wooden building with a large parking lot. The restaurant is located up the front stairway, through the door to the left.
Forgive me for the following lines of shameless self-promotion. I’m a CIR in Tsubata who happens to adore food – its cultural relevance as well as its production and consumption. A few months ago it was getting to the point where it seemed like my Facebook wall was almost nothing but photos of things I had eaten. So I decided to consolidate. I started a blog.
I try to keep my content local when I can, and particularly enjoy trying out mysterious seasonal produce – but I post everything from bento ideas to restaurant reviews, as well as recipes and stories. If you’re a fellow food enthusiast, would like guidance on cooking in Japan, or are just looking for a fun way to experience more of Ishikawa, Hokuriku Expat Kitchen is meant for you.
Look for a weekly update on my culinary adventures every Thursday, here on the Ishikawa JET Blog!
Without further ado, today’s post is a restaurant review.
Unkai (雲海) is an awesome gyoza restaurant in the hills just inland of central Tsubata. It’s a bit of a trek, even with a car, but I promise it’s worth your while. You can sample twelve unusual dumpling varieites (including curry and black sesame) as well as Chinese teas and homemade desserts, served against the backdrop of an elegantly restored 100 year old house. The owner/chef is generous and accomodating, and will gladly design a menu that fits the needs of your party. Vegetarian versions of all of the gyoza are available upon request.
Hours: 10:00 a.m.~7:00 p.m. (Closed Wednesdays) Open by reservation only
Phone Number: (076) 288-0308
Address: 石川県河北郡津幡町字上藤又ト９ (Ishikawa ken, Kahoku gun, Tsubata machi, Kamifujimata To 9)
For more information, see the full review, or visit Unkai’s webpage (Japanese only)
The Ishikawa Prefecture Tourism League seems to be increasing its efforts to court foreign tourists via the creation of multilingual tourism websites: Hot-Ishikawa started producing an English-language quarterly tourism e-newsletter (see prior link), through which I found Gourmet Ishikawa, a new multilingual resource for dining in Ishikawa. The site may be viewed in Japanese, English, Korean, or Chinese (traditional or simplified) and has great information on not just restaurants but also Japanese dining etiquette and Ishikawan food culture.
… Or is it?
The shop windows glow invitingly in the evening.
I’d like you introduce you to Patisserie Ar. I found this place when I got lost on the way to a preschool visit. Hidden away in a residential neighborhood just a minute by car from the highway, this take-home cake shop is definitely worth the short detour when you’re passing through. They have no seating, but they’ll package their delicious cakes with plenty of ice packs to keep them safe and cool until you make it home.
The shop itself is cute, with ornate wallpaper and an eclectic collection of decorative mirrors covering the walls. But of course, our eyes are immediately drawn to the glass case, and the enticing display of cakes and sweets of all colors and shapes. There are flavors for sweet lovers of all kinds, from that staple of Japanese cake shops, strawberry shortcake, to a simple, rich gateau chocolat (ガトーショコラ), to creamy green tea mousse (te ver – テ・ヴェール 抹茶ムース). Their blueberry tart is piled high with cream and fresh blueberries, and their chocolate raspberry cake is just the right combination of sweet and tart.
The blueberry tart has a center of blueberry preserves and sweet vanilla custard, and is topped with fresh blueberries and whipped cream (370 yen).
I think I was most impressed by their chiffon cake. I always considered chiffon cake to be a pretty boring, no-comment kind of dessert, but Patisserie Ar has made me realize its potential. Theirs is extremely moist and complimented well by not-too-sweet whipped cream. The flavor varies seasonally – last time I went, each slice was flavored with yuzu zest, and the time before that with the subtle aroma of earl gray tea.
As of January 2011, Wafûan has closed the tea house to make a gallery, but you can still sample Nakaura-ya’s wagashi with a bit of green tea on the first floor.
We here on the Ishikawa JET Blog love our cafes and coffee shops, but where do you go to get a good cup of matcha (抹茶) without attending a tea ceremony? A friend recently introduced me to Wafûan, a tea house situated on the second floor of the 中浦屋 (わいち本店), the Waichi location a okashi (お菓子), or Japanese sweets shop, called Nakaura-ya (中浦屋) in Wajima.
The front of the shop at night.
Wafûan’s name is a pun: 和風 (wafû) means Japanese-style, but the first kanji has been changed to the wa of Wajima (輪島). An (庵) means retreat or hermitage. Indeed, this is a great place to hide out from the winter winds.
I love the atmosphere of this place as much as I love the tea and okashi. The décor is simple, with the wooden walls, floors, and furniture evoking the browns and blacks of Wajima lacquerware. The tables and chairs are Western-style, which is great if you aren’t a fan of sitting in seiza (正座) on cushions. The windows let in enough light that the atmosphere isn’t gloomy or stuffy, a constant complaint I have about the coffee shops around here.
Seasonal okashi: yuzu flavor
What is unique about Wafûan is that everything is served in/on real Wajima lacquerware. The dishes are gorgeous, and it was worth it just to be able to hold and use real lacquerware. This would be a great experience for your friends and family to experience tea culture and get to use fancy lacquerware dishes in a low-pressure environment.
The menu is Japanese only, and the prices are written in Japanese numbers—instead of ￥500, for example, the price is written 五百円. The menu changes a bit seasonally, but there’s coffee (kouhii, 珈琲–the old kanji!), black tea (koucha, 紅茶), matcha, and a yuzu drink, hot or cold. The sweets menu includes, for winter, zenzai (ぜんざい) or white zenzai, a sweet azuki-based soup with mochi. There’s several varieties of anmitsu (あんみつ、餡蜜), a parfait-like dessert of agar jelly and anko, and ice cream (aisu kuriimu, アイスクリーム). The most economical option is to order a set: there’s a seasonal okashi and drink set; an anmitsu-and-drink set and a mochi-and-drink set. (The drink is your choice.)
I ordered a seasonal okashi set and had the choice between three different kinds of okashi, two of which were yuzu-based (柚子, sometimes called citron in English). I choose a yuzu manjû; my set was a cup of matcha, two small gummy okashi and a yuzu manjû.*
If you love tofu and want to enjoy organic, locally raised, and delicious vegetables as well, head over to Morimoto to try out the amazing food at 五箇山農園食堂 Gokayama Nouen Shokodou (Gokayama Farm Diner). All of the food is made locally, and I personally haven’t had tofu cuisine this good outside of Kyoto.
Even when the restaurant is busy, the atmosphere is calm and quiet. The wood décor inside the shop is gorgeous, and feels classy but natural—not too ritzy; not too rustic. The staff is polite and the chefs and kitchen staff clearly take a lot of pride and care in the preparation of the ingredients.
The front of the store has a shop that sells some takeaway dishes, rice, tofu-based products, and crafts.
I went for lunch with fellow JETs and we all ordered the daily special lunch set (omakase ranchi, おまかせランチ) for 1050 yen. This is a platter of about 9 tiny dishes of seasonal tofu-and-vegetable dishes, a tiny cup of soy milk, a bowl of brown rice (you choose the size), and a bowl of miso-soup, served with houjicha. Other dishes available include soba, udon, ramen, and curry; there are tofu-based desserts available, too. Additionally, there are some local and imported beers available.
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